El Camino Del Diablo
Posted: Jan 19 2004 8:34 am
This was an epic drive of 100+ dirt road miles retracing the old historic route from Ajo to Yuma. I was a bit pressed for time as I was meeting friends coming in from the Yuma end Sunday am to explore around Tinaja Altas tanks.
It was relatively easy to obtain a permit from Cabeza Prieta Wildlife Refuge folks, who were very helpful. The free permit allows you to cross Organ Pipe Nat'l Monument, thru Cabaza Prieta and out thru the Barry M Goldwater military range. You can be assured your presence will be reported to the Border Patrol and most of your progress will be tracked via satellite.
I had several guide books with me which were great for reference points of natural and historical significance along the trail.
I started very early Sat morning, having spent the night in Gila Bend.
I was not sure I was on the right dirt road having split off the Darby Well mine road but it proved to be correct. The first major landmark was Bates Well, with its old outbuildings, the remains of the last ranchers house in Organ Pipe monument, the new looking windmill and tank.
It was pretty going by the Growler mtns- lots of Saguaros, and the Organ Pipe cacti; I found one impressive specimen about 15 feet tall and probably 20+ arms.
Soon you enter Cabeza Prieta, announced by a sign. The terrain alters between open brushy flats and rolling hills, the road mostly rocky and packed dirt. I had seen no one else at this point. At Papago well a group of 6 vehicles with Colorado plates were camped.
Thru O'Neill pass the road passes right by his grave- circa 1916- it is rumored he was drunk and passed out with his face in a mud hole and drowned. Sounds like a desert tale to me.
At Las Playas was when I went into 4Wd, up until then 2Wd was fine, although you will not be issued a permit unless you have 4Wd. The sand was very deep in places and I almost "shoveled" it with the front spoiler on the Cherokee. A spectacular wildflower bloom stopped me here- about an 8th of an acre of sand verbena, primroses- white and a few yellow dotted the sand hummocks.
Out onto the Pinnacate lava flow, I thankfully got out of my vehicle and went on a short hike out to a cinder cone overlook. Even here yellow flowers dotted the flats between black lava rock.
From the lava flow and pinta sands the road proceeds to Gravestone pass. Many graves dot the Camino- only a few can be found today.
I car camped at Tule Well, out from the main camping area because of the Colorado group behind me that I knew would like the large group area. I hiked a bit around camp- the Tule mountains are wonderous geologically and invite exploration with their wierd rock forms. As I was apprehensive concerning illegal immigrant activity I slept in the back of the Cherokee.
The next day I met my friends at the turn off for Tinaja Altas- the most famous desert water hole as it is the only source of water for many miles. It consists of 10 natural rock tanks stacked on each other down a step granite spill way. To climb to the upper tanks requires a bit of rock climbing skill so I was content to view the mid and lower tanks which held some greenish water. Lots of big horn sheep sign here. Also plenty of metates as this had been utilized by the indians for many years.
We chose to go out Tinaja Altas pass, a route pioneered in 1774 by Juan Bautista de Anza as a short cut to Yuma. We wandered around on the Davis plain, observed some helicopter military manuevers, then out to Yuma, and back to Tucson for me.
This is a great drive full of history, solitude, desert beauty and hiking possiblities. The permit you receive is good for a period of time- all you have to do is call before you go. You must be self sufficient for remote desert travel and have a 4Wd. I will return to do more hiking in the near future.
It was relatively easy to obtain a permit from Cabeza Prieta Wildlife Refuge folks, who were very helpful. The free permit allows you to cross Organ Pipe Nat'l Monument, thru Cabaza Prieta and out thru the Barry M Goldwater military range. You can be assured your presence will be reported to the Border Patrol and most of your progress will be tracked via satellite.
I had several guide books with me which were great for reference points of natural and historical significance along the trail.
I started very early Sat morning, having spent the night in Gila Bend.
I was not sure I was on the right dirt road having split off the Darby Well mine road but it proved to be correct. The first major landmark was Bates Well, with its old outbuildings, the remains of the last ranchers house in Organ Pipe monument, the new looking windmill and tank.
It was pretty going by the Growler mtns- lots of Saguaros, and the Organ Pipe cacti; I found one impressive specimen about 15 feet tall and probably 20+ arms.
Soon you enter Cabeza Prieta, announced by a sign. The terrain alters between open brushy flats and rolling hills, the road mostly rocky and packed dirt. I had seen no one else at this point. At Papago well a group of 6 vehicles with Colorado plates were camped.
Thru O'Neill pass the road passes right by his grave- circa 1916- it is rumored he was drunk and passed out with his face in a mud hole and drowned. Sounds like a desert tale to me.
At Las Playas was when I went into 4Wd, up until then 2Wd was fine, although you will not be issued a permit unless you have 4Wd. The sand was very deep in places and I almost "shoveled" it with the front spoiler on the Cherokee. A spectacular wildflower bloom stopped me here- about an 8th of an acre of sand verbena, primroses- white and a few yellow dotted the sand hummocks.
Out onto the Pinnacate lava flow, I thankfully got out of my vehicle and went on a short hike out to a cinder cone overlook. Even here yellow flowers dotted the flats between black lava rock.
From the lava flow and pinta sands the road proceeds to Gravestone pass. Many graves dot the Camino- only a few can be found today.
I car camped at Tule Well, out from the main camping area because of the Colorado group behind me that I knew would like the large group area. I hiked a bit around camp- the Tule mountains are wonderous geologically and invite exploration with their wierd rock forms. As I was apprehensive concerning illegal immigrant activity I slept in the back of the Cherokee.
The next day I met my friends at the turn off for Tinaja Altas- the most famous desert water hole as it is the only source of water for many miles. It consists of 10 natural rock tanks stacked on each other down a step granite spill way. To climb to the upper tanks requires a bit of rock climbing skill so I was content to view the mid and lower tanks which held some greenish water. Lots of big horn sheep sign here. Also plenty of metates as this had been utilized by the indians for many years.
We chose to go out Tinaja Altas pass, a route pioneered in 1774 by Juan Bautista de Anza as a short cut to Yuma. We wandered around on the Davis plain, observed some helicopter military manuevers, then out to Yuma, and back to Tucson for me.
This is a great drive full of history, solitude, desert beauty and hiking possiblities. The permit you receive is good for a period of time- all you have to do is call before you go. You must be self sufficient for remote desert travel and have a 4Wd. I will return to do more hiking in the near future.
