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DESTINATION
MtRainier via Disappointment Cleaver-WA Highpo
2 Photosets

2019-07-20  
2014-05-17  
mini location map2019-07-20
93 by photographer avatarLucyan
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MtRainier via Disappointment Cleaver-WA HighpoVolcano, WA
Volcano, WA
Hike & Climb33.50 Miles 9,451 AEG
Hike & Climb33.50 Miles3 Days         
9,451 ft AEG
Second
 no routes
1st trip
Linked   none no linked trail guides
Partners none no partners
We met at the IMG Headquaters in Ashford, just outside of Mt. Rainier National Park on Friday to go over the itinerary and review gear. We camped at the premises at an established campground.

On Saturday, we met around 8am and left for Paradise. After arriving at Paradise, we started our hike to Camp Muir. The hike took about half the day. First part on established trails in Paradise Area (Skyline trail to High Skyline to Pebble Creek). After Pebble Creek we put our mountaineering boots on and started trekking in snow and ice. We arrived at the IMG shelter at Camp Muir at 10,080ft around 3pm. After relaxing and taking pictures, we had nice dinner at the IMG big cooking tent and reviewed our plans for the next day. Weather has been great all day, sunny and clear with no wind.

On Sunday we ate pancakes and bacon for breakfast and then proceeded with snow school, learning more about self-arest, use of ice axe, crampons, running belay and rope travel. After lunch we proceeded to our established tent camp at The Flats at 11,000ft. We had early dinner and went to bed around 5pm. I was unable to sleep but at least got little bit or rest. You could hear the rock fall of the mountain and glacier crack.

We got woken up at 11pm on Sunday and had quick oatmeal breakfast. We roped up and begin our summit bid at midnight. First brief hike on the glacier until we reached Disappointment Cleaver. It took us about 2 hours to get on top of this rock, sand and ice "hill". We took short break and continued uphill on the glacier. This part of the approach took about 2,5 hours. Mostly climbing straight up on very steep and narrow "trail", using fixed ropes, running belays and ladders. We past several open crevasses and crossed several cracks in the glacier. It got very windy towards the summit. We were able to reach the summit, but it was still dark and because of heavy winds, we decided to descent immediately. It didn't feel safe to linger on the mountain any longer. We got back to the top of DC very shortly, just after sun started to rise and we enjoyed nice sunrise there. We took pictures and proceeded downhill. Wind was getting very heavy even there. We got back to the high camp around 8am and packed up. We left for Muir camp shortly. At that point we could see dark clouds obscuring the summit and wind getting even stronger. We hiked down to Paradise and arrived around 10am.
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